Digging For Gold on the Farm

My fellow farmer is a man of enthusiasm; I am a woman of caution. This holds true for pretty much everything in our lives, from getting out of bed in the morning, to varied discussions of budgets, meals, plans for the garden, and tasks for the day, including our present autumn activity of digging the potatoes.

In the best of potato years, my fellow's natural enthusiasm and my natural caution combine to stunning effect: by this time of year, we have our beautiful, productive crop dug, bagged, and stored well before any danger of hard frost, ice, and snow. Then we can wash, sort, and distribute our potatoes to CSA members and to the Farmers Market over the weeks of October and November in a leisurely, or at least non-frantic, fashion.

Most years, however, do not seem to be the best of potato years, though they are likely to be pretty good, or decent, or not terrible years. Happily we have not had the worst of potato years, which would mean no potatoes at all. Some years we've wondered, what with the towering weeds, the Colorado potato beetles, the leaf hoppers, the vole damage, and the early and late blight, but so far we've always found potatoes in the ground.

This year is shaping up to be a decent potato year, a solid ordinary year. We're not done digging yet, but we're making progress. The weeds and the voles and the bugs and the blight haven't been too bad, and we've been able to do our digging on sunny, pleasant days, rather than cold and soggy ones.

In fact, it was a sunny, pleasant day, way back in September, when my fellow enthusiastically suggested, “Let's start the potatoes!”

“Today?” I answered, cautiously. “What about planting the lettuce and weeding the carrots?”

“Oh, yeah,” sighed my fellow. He was tired of planting lettuce and weeding carrots. He was ready for an exciting new project.

“Hey, let's start digging the potatoes!” he said the next day.

“But what about the rutabagas and the beets and the hole in the irrigation?” I like to finish up all our of old projects before starting new ones.

My fellow sighed, all the way into October, when finally his enthusiasm carried my caution along, partly because we're never going to finish all the old projects, and partly because if we don't start those potatoes soon, we're going to be digging them out of snowdrifts.

We gather up our digging forks and our potato bags and our wheelbarrows. My fellow has a spring in his step and a light in his eye: he loves digging potatoes.

My step is a little less springy; my eyes have a little less gleam: gosh, eight 200 foot rows of potatoes looks like an awful lot to dig. There are fingerling potatoes, and red potatoes, and white potatoes, and yellow potatoes, and maybe even some purple ones in there, and we hand dig them all. This appears an enormous project, and I study it with some dismay, trying to think of some nice important little farm job I could finish up instead.

Meanwhile, my fellow plunges in his digging fork (well, first he parts the weeds, then he looks for a dead potato vine, then he carefully positions his fork, and pushes it in).

“Look at this!” he says, overturning a generous forkful of fingerling potatoes. “Aren't they beautiful?”

They are beautiful, plump and golden and not at all chewed on, nestling in the rich dark dirt.

“It's like digging for gold, for jewels,” says my fellow happily.

Inspired, I choose a spot down the row, push aside the weeds, and pose my fork above the soil.

“I hate it when I put my fork through a potato,” I say.

“I know,” answers my nice fellow. “It happens to everybody.”

“But I really hate it,” I say, still holding my fork in the air. “I hate wasting food.”

“We'll just cut it up and eat it. Plus it's hard to poke one of these little fingerlings. Look at this!” my fellow uncovers another beautiful bunch of taters.

I take a deep breath, and think how yummy these potatoes are, how even something as humble and ordinary as a potato soars to new heights when it is local and fresh and home-grown.

Finally, I put my fork into the soil, and my boot onto my fork. I cautiously turn over the dirt.

“Look!” I exclaim. “Gold! Jewels!”

Originally published in the Monadnock Shopper News, Oct 28 - Nov 3, 2015

 

The Big Hairy Cucumber

We are about as local as it gets, here on our little vegetable farm. We have our three new Hampshire acres of produce, which we sell to Community Supported Agriculture members from nearby towns in New Hampshire and Vermont, as well as to folks frequenting the Keene Farmers Market. We have our several New Hampshire heirloom vegetable varieties, growing alongside all our other crops, and we have our team of New Hampshire born and raised draft horses.

We two farmers are practically local, too, even though one of us grew up outside of Philadelphia and the other on a dairy farm in upstate New York. After all, in our first season as Granite Staters, way back in '02, we received a high compliment: we were christened “not flatlanders.” As in, “I guess you're not flatlanders after all,” a remark made by our neighbor of seventy plus, who was has lived in New Hampshire all his life.

One of the wonderful things about being local, of course, is that it gives a farmer that steady, secure place to weed carrots or kale or cabbage, and thus to make a local living. Lest we get too local, however (or even – gasp! – provincial), we can always count on all the fine people who enjoy our produce to get us global.

For example, there was our CSA member from Australia, who, as we toured the garden one year, said, “Ooo, is that silver beet?”

I hesitated, trying to summon up my knowledgeable local farmer persona.

Finally I answered. “Mmm,” I said, knowledgeably. “Now which one of these vegetables might you be talking about?”

The member laughed, and pointed to the Swiss Chard.

“Oh, yes!” I said, “Silvah beet! We have lots of silvah beet!” saying it just like she did, in her cool Australian way. Then we moved on to the Capsicums, hot, the Capsicums, sweet, and the Capsicums, green (peppers, that would be). Next was the marrow, which is either similar to or identical with zucchini, I was never quite sure.

Another year we had the pleasure of having a father and his adult daughter, originally from Korea, picking peas in our garden. The father was eagerly filling his bag with snow peas; the daughter kept saying, “Here, try these,” as she picked sugar snap peas from the next row over.

The father shook his head. “Look at these snow peas!”

“These are really good, Dad,” the daughter tried again. “Try these.”

The father sighed a little, and took a sugar snap pea. He munched it. “Ah,” he said, to his daughter. “Why don't we know these?”

He smiled. She smiled. He moved on over to the sugar snap pea row.

Then, too, my fellow farmer is always on the alert for interesting seeds from other countries, either through seed catalogs, or through people's travels. One member brings us cabbage and squash seed when he visits his home country of Belgium. A Portuguese friend brings us kale seed, and a Portuguese tomato, and a big long squash-like thing, to grow. We've tried holy basil from a friend in India, and an Estonian tomato from another member's family in that country.

Just this year, my fellow found a fuzzy pale green Italian cucumber in a catalog. It grows in a football shape, and every other day we'd check to see if it was ready to pick.

“Is it ready? Do we pick it?” I would ask.

My knowledgeable local farmer fellow shrugged. “I don't know. It's getting pretty big. Yeah! Let's pick it!”

We picked it, and then we looked at it. It sure was hairy, and funny-shaped. Then my fellow had the brilliant idea to ask one of our new members about the cucumber. “He's Italian! His name is Domenico! He'll know if it's ready!” said my fellow.

“He might know,” I said doubtfully. “It doesn't look much like a cucumber.”

And then the sweet end of the story: my fellow shows the cucumber to Dominic (Domenico!) “Oh, oh!” he exclaims. “I haven't seen one of these in thirty years! My father used to grow them, in Italy!”

That night we receive an email, a picture of Domenico's supper: an heirloom tomato and Italian cucumber salad. “Grazie! It doesn't get any better than this!” says the message.

We local-global farmers agree, wholeheartedly.

Originally published in the Monadnock Shopper News, Sept 30-Oct 6, 2015

Weeding and Ice Cream Party: No Weeding, No Eating

Our very first “Ice Cream (and Weeding!) Party” with our CSA members was fifteen years ago, in the very first year of our very first CSA garden, near Ithaca, NY. Homemade, hand-cranked ice cream in return for an hour or two of weeding sounded like a great deal to us, especially since our hours of weeding were (and are) not generally followed by creamy, delicious, homemade, hand-cranked ice cream.

We planned it all out: we would weed for two hours, and then we'd start cranking the ice cream, just in time for afternoon snack. With all the hordes of people flocking to the party, we'd surely get the fall carrots and the beets and the broccoli and the cabbage and the winter squash weeded, and if we needed more to do, we could tackle the onions and garlic. We made a big tub of ice cream mix, with six quarts of milk, cream, sugar, vanilla, and a pinch of salt, all ready to be churned in our ice-cream mixer.

Then we sat on the porch, and waited for the hordes.

And waited.

“But where are all the people?” said I, as the minutes ticked by. “They were supposed to be here at two, and it's two-fifteen already.”

“Hmm,” said my fellow farmer. “I'm not sure. Maybe all their cars broke down?”

By two-thirty, our then baby began to appear a little restless, waiting on the porch for the people.

“I guess we have to go weed by ourselves,” I said glumly.

“Yeah,” said my fellow. “I don't really feel like it. Maybe we should just make the ice cream right now?”

“But what if somebody comes? What if they got their cars fixed, and they're coming? Let's just take a little walk around and look at what needs weeding. The baby will like that, too.”

My fellow sighed. “That's half our trouble here, isn't it? That we just walk around and look at what needs doing.”

“Nah,” I said. “Half of our trouble is our CSA members won't come and help us weed.” We got a good giggle out of this, and, once we got out to the desperately weedy beets and carrots, we couldn't help ourselves. We started weeding, as the baby took a little nap in the pathway.

“We're just having a party all by ourselves,” said my fellow. “And it must be time to make the ice cream by now.”

I lifted my head. “No, wait! I hear a car! Somebody's coming!”

My fellow jumped up. “You're right! Let's go see who it is!”

By this time, we were so sure no none was coming that the arrival was a pleasant surprise: three fine weeders, and never mind that two were under six, and more interested in ice cream than tidy garden beds.

Now, fifteen years later, we still have our Ice Cream and Weeding parties, though we call them Weeding and Ice Cream Parties these days, just to be clear on the order of things. We still hope for far more weeding to be accomplished than could ever reasonably be (ah, there it it is: the optimism necessary to sustain the farming fire for all this time!).

We have also learned over the years that making six quarts of ice cream is a little too much for our ice cream churn: the mix squishes out the top. But five quarts is an ideal amount for any number of people. It's been ideal for the giant parties of ten plus weeders, and it's been ideal for the weeding party in the (light, very light) rain, where we had one stalwart fellow in a raincoat. And it's been ideal for the parties where two farmers, and one now teenage daughter, walk around and look at what needs doing.

Of course, we three have to weed a little, even if no one else shows up, because that's the Weeding and Ice Cream Party rule: no weeding, no eating. And gosh, just think if we had Weeding and Ice Cream Party rules in effect all the time: imagine the gloriously weed-free gardens, the fantastically fit people, the peace, love, harmony, justice, and happy farmers in the world!

Originally published in the Monadnock Shopper News, Sept 2-Sept 8, 2015

Putting Food By

 

Here on the farm we are entering the season of Putting Food By. It is a long season, and a hectic season, the urgency compounded by the fact that it is also the Hot and Heavy Haying Season, the Little Bit More Fall Planting Season, the Everlasting Weeding Season, and the Intense Harvesting Season. The tomato harvesting alone can take up to twelve hours a week. Then there's the beets and carrots and lettuce and scallions and eggplant and green and red and hot peppers and kale and chard. And, of course, there's the exuberant yellow squash, zucchini, and cucumbers, which must be picked every other day, Or Else.

Or Else? Or Else we are inundated in the farm kitchen with giant zucchini, massive yellow squash, and portly cucumbers. These are vegetables that any CSA member in his or her right mind wouldn't dream of taking from the surplus-and-sharing tray, especially on top of the five pleasantly sized zucchini, four yellow squash, and several cucumbers that might be in the regular share for the week.

Still, despite our best efforts to keep the food flowing to the people, and not inundating the kitchen, we still must Put Food By. No longer can we say, “Oh, it's faaaarr too early in the season to start freezing or canning or drying anything at all.” Now we must buck up and buckle down, making marinara sauce and zucchini soup and blobs of frozen Swiss Chard for the winter months.

Now we must say firmly to one another, “It's just as important to Put Food By as it is to do all this other weeding and harvesting and planting and haying. It's part of the whole sustainable farming picture. Right?” This speech tends to happen at 8 or 8:30 at night, after a full day in the garden, when we might be faced with an enormous bag of basil that has to turn into delicious pesto for the winter.

There are some evenings that the only turning that happens is the turning into bed, because we two farmers are just too worn out. Then the next morning we hope that the fine enormous bag of basil will hold one more day, so that we can have the Putting Food By Speech again at 8 or 8:30 that night, and actually accomplish the pesto.

And we must accomplish the pesto, because in August and September the household has a law in effect: the Putting Food By law, which translates to One Act of Preservation a Day! It might be a small act of preservation, such as chopping up a bunch of parsley, and freezing it, or it might be a big one: canning 14 pints of tomato sauce, plus a little batch of raspberry jam, since we've already got the water in the canner boiling, plus some hot peppers in vinegar, since, yeah, we've already got the water boiling. . . Too, if we put by more than one thing a day, that surely counts as One Act of Preservation a Day! for multiple days, giving us a little leeway with the law, and, yes! a little leeway with early bedtime.

Luckily, since we are rather weary farmers this time of year, leniency of any kind will suffice: often the basil or the tomatoes or the squash will hold one more day . . . and maybe one more day . . . one more . . . and then there is always the Great, Merciful, and Compassionate Compost Pile, which turns a crime of Food-Wasting into a Potential Marvelous Crop of Vegetables for the Next Garden Season. Oh, all that miraculous Compost Clemency! It surely gives us sweet dreams in this busy, sleepy season of Putting Food By.

Originally published in the Monadnock Shopper News, Aug 5-Aug 11, 2015